Do ferrets travel well?

Around town

Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them with you wherever they're welcome. Be careful not to let them get too hot or cold, though.

Automobile travel

Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road. You can use a water bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills.

Airplane travel

Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in under-seat carriers, for an additional charge. (America West, Air Canada, and Delta do, and I once got a special exception from Continental after talking with their customer service folks for a while. Any others?) Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this way. If you make any travel arrangements for your ferrets, whether it's in the cabin, as baggage, or as freight, get them in writing. Several people have reported experiences in which one person at an airline said ferrets would be fine only to have another person prohibit them, sometimes on very short notice.

Tranquilizing the ferret isn't recommended -- it'll disorient him and may affect his ability to keep his body temperature regulated. Medications can also be affected by altitude, leading to a risk of overdosing.

Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by carrying them through security, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with that.

If you have to fly your ferrets somewhere and no airline will take them, a courier service such as Airborne Express or FedEx might be able to help. This might be the only way to fly your ferrets to some international destinations.

Hotels

Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to call ahead and make sure. Also leave a note to reassure the maids.

Canada/U.S. border crossings

As of January 22, 1997, an import permit is no longer needed to bring a ferret into Canada, whether it's a Canadian or U.S. ferret. Ferrets are now treated like dogs and cats, and only require proof of rabies and distemper vaccinations. However, if you do not have a residential address in Canada, a quarantine period may be imposed, apparently at the discretion of the agent at the border.

Bringing ferrets from Canada into the U.S. is much the same. All I've ever needed was a rabies certificate. Proof that the ferrets came from the U.S. in the first place might also be helpful (a NY state license, in my case; if you don't have one, register your pets with U.S. Customs before you enter Canada). I don't know much about Canadian residents bringing ferrets into the U.S., but I wouldn't expect it to be any different.

Legal issues

You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have had, just in case.

Help! My ferret is lost!

Preparation

Teach your ferrets to come to a sound (a word, squeaky toy, whistle, etc.) and reward them with their favorite treat when they do. Deaf ferrets can be trained to come by using a flashlight and blinking it off and on rapidly for a strobing effect. (Hearing ones too, for that matter.) Introduce your ferret to your neighbors so they will be familiar with what a ferret is and what it looks like. Put a collar or harness with a bell and name tag on your ferret whenever it is out of the cage. This way if somebody sees it they will know that it is a pet and not a wild animal.

Missing ferret

Use your word processor or graphics program and design a missing ferret poster now before you need it and have it on file so specific information can be added and copies can be printed up in a short period of time. The poster should include your phone number, the ferret's name and picture, a description of any collar or harness he was wearing, date missing, last known location, and mention of a reward. (Never place how much money offered on the poster as some people may not think the amount offered is worth their effort.) Some people suggest that you say that the ferret is ill and needs medication (even if it's healthy). (This little white lie might make someone who finds your ferret and is thinking of keeping it for themselves have second thoughts and call you to come get it.)

Call your local police, animal control authorities, ferret club, ferret shelter, pet stores, veterinarians and radio stations. Get the word out. Canvass your neighborhood door to door and let your neighbors know to watch for a missing ferret in the area, perhaps in their garages or dryer vents. If you have another ferret, take it along to show them what one looks like. Ask your neighbors, especially children, if they will help you look around. Hand volunteers a noise maker that you use to call your ferret or tell them your call sign. Also hand out treats so if the ferret is spotted by someone they can keep it in sight until it can be retrieved. Alert your mailman, newspaper boy, and anyone else who passes through your area often. Post signs everywhere and place ads in your local newspapers. Don't limit it to your immediate neighborhood. Ferrets have been found many miles from home after crossing major highways and busy streets.

If you own more than one ferret, take one with you. It can show you small openings that you may otherwise overlook and may also draw the missing ferret out into the open to see its friend.

Remember, look low. Ferrets love dark places so check under porches, shrubs, dumpsters and cars. Ferrets also like small places so check behind trashcans and any little nook and cranny you find. Look for the telltale " a ferret has been here" signs. (Leaves, dirt and grass that have been dug at and little piles of poop that we all know so well.)

Don't give up hope. Missing ferrets have been found days, weeks and occasionally even months after their great escape.

Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing?

Spaying or neutering: yes

A female can be spayed even after she goes into heat, but if she's been in heat for a month or more, your vet should do a blood test before the surgery. Females can be brought out of heat without becoming pregnant with a hormone injection or by breeding with a vasectomized male, either of which will lead to a false pregnancy which will last long enough to let her be spayed. Neither one is a good long-term solution, though.

Breeding ferrets is difficult and time-consuming. Before even thinking about breeding, you should have owned ferrets for some years, be a member of a ferret organization, and find out as much about it as you can. The actual mating is rather violent, and jills tend to have problems giving birth, producing milk, and so forth. If you're serious about breeding, talk to someone who has first. You'll need to have more than one whole male available (in case your female goes into heat when your male isn't) and more than one breeding female available (in case you need a foster mom because your jill has milk problems) -- and be prepared to lose some or all of the kits and perhaps the mom too. Grim, but true. To learn more about breeding or where to find a good breeder, get a sample copy of the Breeder's Digest by sending $2.75 to P.O. Box 2371, Leesburg, VA 22075.

Descenting: maybe

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits. Many breeders sell kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Declawing: probably not

What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

Canine distemper

Adults who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks apart, then yearly boosters. If you know they've been vaccinated within the last year, then one shot is enough.

If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third choice. If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become sick from the vaccine. At least be sure that it's a vaccine for canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT cultured in ferret tissue. Chick embryo culture is best.

Rabies

Comments

They can contract Bordatella (a common cause of kennel cough in dogs), but it's very rare, and the effectiveness of the vaccine is unknown in ferrets. Don't vaccinate for it unless you'll be boarding your ferrets at a kennel, and possibly not even then. The intranasal Bordatella vaccine has been known to give ferrets the disease.

It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems to increase the chances of an adverse reaction (see below).

If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a month since the last one.

Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets, because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are yet to be done. This means that even if your ferret is vaccinated, it may be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten. However, having the vaccination may keep the person from reporting a bite in the first place, and of course it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies. (Even closely watched ferrets do occasionally escape.)

Vaccine reactions

There are several kinds of vaccine reactions. The most dangerous, anaphylactic reactions, usually occur within an hour after the vaccination. You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60 minutes after a vaccination, just in case. Watch for vomiting, diarrhea or loss of bladder/bowel control; signs of nausea or dizziness; dark bluish-purple blotches spreading under the skin; difficulty breathing; pale or bright pink gums, ears, feet or nose; seizures, convulsions, or passing out; or anything else that's alarming -- bad reactions are hard to miss. Get the ferret back to the vet right away, probably for a shot of antihistamine (Benadryl) and perhaps a corticosteroid or epinephrine. Ferrets who have had mild to moderate anaphylactic reactions to a particular vaccine can be pre-treated with an antihistamine the next time, or you might consider switching to a different vaccine (from Fervac to Galaxy or the other way, for instance). If your ferret had a severe reaction, you and your vet can discuss the relative dangers of leaving that ferret unvaccinated.

Most delayed reactions aren't dangerous. You might notice the ferret acting tired, showing flu-like symptoms, or possibly even vomiting a little within a day or two after the vaccination. As long as the symptoms don't last longer than a day and don't seem too extreme, there's no need to worry. If the ferret has trouble breathing, is more than a little lethargic, or shows other worrisome symptoms, call or visit your vet. Antihistamines don't help much with delayed reactions, but your vet might suggest pre-treating the ferret next time anyway, in case it helps.

Jeff Johnston, an epidemiologist (though not specifically for ferrets), comments:

One thing that isn't proven but is worth a try is to give your ferret the contents of a small-dose vitamin E capsule (say, 100 IU) a few days before the injection. Vitamin E in large doses suppresses inflammatory responses (also suppresses vitamin K and clotting, so, warn your vet if blood is taken for any reason). It may help blunt any reaction. Vitamin E is also fairly non-toxic, too, so 100 IU once every few months shouldn't hurt. [Don't use more than that, though; anything can be toxic in large enough doses.]

Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?

In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for a rabies certificate to be legal. The annual trip to the vet (or semi-annual, for older ferrets) is also the best time to have your ferrets checked for other health problems.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick animals don't. The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up. Or the ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans.

What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?

I know that some practicing vets consider a 3-year animal to be "geriatric" and to require a CBC [complete blood cell count] and a fasting blood glucose yearly, but as one who stands to make no money on this deal anyway, I don't recommend it until age 5. Three years is just too young to consider a ferret geriatric.

Now, remember, all ferrets are different. If you have one that is sort of "puny", never eats well, sluggish, etc. a yearly CBC and glucose is a good idea every year. But if your three or 4 year olds are healthy, well, then it's just not required. I start mine at 5 years.

Considering dental work - have your vet check the teeth and then recommend who needs it. Not every ferret will need to have it done, and if your 4 year olds have been on hard food all of their lives, chances are good that they may not need any work yet.

Remember - a healthy 3- or 4-year old doesn't necessarily require any annual bloodwork, but a sickly 2 year old should get it on at least an annual basis.

What should I look for when I check over my ferret myself?

Start by checking your ferret's ears, which should look clean and pink. If you see wax, clean them. If the wax is black or has dark flecks, the ferret might have ear mites [10.10]. Check the cartilage for swelling or distortion. Check the ferret's eyes, which should look clear and alert, with no films or discharge. (Ferrets do have a "second eyelid" which might appear as a bluish-white rim around the edge of the eye.) Feel carefully all around the neck, throat and chin area, looking for lumps or swelling. Check the gums, which should be pink and healthy-looking, and the teeth, looking for excessive tartar or discoloration. Whiskers should be long and strong, not brittle or broken.

Now hold the ferret under the front legs, with the back legs on your lap or a table. Run your hands lightly along the ferret's body, checking for lumps. You can also check muscle tone and weight this way: you should be able to feel ribs, but not see them, and the ferret should feel firm and supple, not loose, flabby or skinny. Pull gently on the ferret's legs to check for lumps or swelling on the legs, knees, or feet; the ferret should pull the legs back in. The pads should be pink and soft, with maybe a bit of callus, not irritated or cracking.

Your ferret's behavior is also a good indicator of its general health. Sleeping a lot is normal, and older ferrets will slow down a bit, but they should always be curious, alert, and playful. Any change in normal habits might be a sign of a problem.

Do I need to brush my ferret's teeth?

However, most tartar and plaque starts out under the gumline, and it takes a proper cleaning by a vet to get it off. The job will be easiest and most thorough if the ferret is under anesthesia during the cleaning; ferrets tolerate isoflurane very well, and the risk from anesthesia is very slight. A professional cleaning should be done every one to three years, depending on how dirty the teeth get.

Is my ferret overweight (or underweight)? What can I do?

Too heavy

If your ferret is indeed overweight, he needs to eat a "leaner" food and get more exercise. To reduce his calorie intake, mix his regular food with a high quality food for cats (as opposed to kittens) or Totally Ferret for Older Ferrets. You still want to keep the protein and fat content relatively high, but not quite at the top of the recommended range. Mix the new food in gradually so he accepts it better. Of course, also reduce the number of high-calorie treats, especially sugary ones and those designed for weight gain (NutriCal, FerretVite, etc.). To give him more exercise, make sure he's not spending too much time in his cage, especially since many ferrets will eat when they're bored. Play with him as much as possible, particularly games like chase; if he enjoys going outside, consider taking him on a short walk each day.

Too light

Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?

A lot of the discussion about ferrets on alt.pets.ferrets, rec.pets and the Ferret Mailing List (FML) deals with health problems, and it's easy to get the incorrect impression that ferrets are constantly ill.

As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, puts it:

Ferrets are no more prone to disease than other animals. However, they do have a much shorter lifespan, so these problems come up an a more frequent basis. Plus, most of us own anywhere between two and fifteen animals, and many own more than this, or run shelters. When you are dealing with such large numbers of animals, you will have proportionately more health problems.

Also, the FML also has several vets that give health advice. We are well known as a place where you can get a prompt response to a question about the health of your animal, and several of us also are involved with the health care of many of the animals which you read about.

Another thing to consider is that many of the FMLers live in areas where vets are not very familiar with ferrets and their diseases, so the FML is a good place to get a second opinion or advice for their vets. I field anywhere from 3-8 phone calls daily on ferret matters from veterinarians around the country.

Any type of animal that you may obtain as a pet will have predisposition to disease. Ferrets should be expected to get diseases of their own, too. But as most people on the FML will tell you, the benefits are far more than the risks.

How do I contact Dr. Williams? I hear he'll help with diagnoses.

Tissues of all kinds can be sent to Dr. Williams at AccuPath for low-cost, expert examination with a short turnaround time. Email <accupath@primenet.com> or call (301) 299-8041 for more information.

What special needs do older ferrets have?

The age at which a ferret should be considered "senior" varies from one ferret to the next. Some 5-year-olds are as active as they were at three, while others are settling into ferret retirement. Pretty much every ferret is an oldster by 7, though many do very well for several more years.

There are three big things you need to take into consideration for older ferrets: physical health, diet, and mental health. First, get a full medical checkup for your ferret, including full blood work. Depending on the results, you might want to start getting checkups every six months.

Although older ferrets sometimes have trouble eating dry food, you might not want to eliminate crunchy food, since that will keep your ferret's gums and teeth healthy. Some people swear by Totally Ferret for Older Ferrets. There's no reason you can't supplement the dry food with something like one of the "Duck Soups".

Be sure that your ferret has a lot to do, plenty of of old knotted-up socks to stash (at which point you must, of course, move them to continue the game), tubes and so on. Play with him as much as you can each day, and provide him with things to keep him interested and alert. These can be anything from culinary herbs in a box to dig up and roll in, to tricks, to some easy barriers to defeat. Exercise is good! Mental exercise is, too. Older ferrets often seem to need a bit more direct attention than young ones so try to set aside some time just for your ferret every day.

Even if your ferret is ill, give him a bit of self-sovereignty, too. Having someone else control all your choices makes life a drag for anyone.

What warning signs of disease should I look for?

NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned ferrets very long. (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc.

Symptomatic of a number of problems.

Lack of bowel movement

If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal blockage. Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to the vet immediately. Note that a ferret can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a lack of food intake for some other reason. Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day. Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a little loose. Also look for string-like stools. Ferrets with intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin- like a pencil lead. But adequate ferret-proofing is much more important than stool-watching.

Swollen or painful abdomen

Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals. Pain could be from any of several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser. Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though.

Change in "bathroom" habits

Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems. Stress, perhaps from a change in environment, can also cause this.

Lumps on the body or feet

These may be cysts or infections, or they might be associated with a tumor, usually benign but sometimes malignant. They can also be a sign of dietary problems or a vaccine reaction. Have any swelling or lump checked out and probably removed by your vet, and have anything that's removed sent to a pathologist. For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Skin Tumors.

Difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement

Most often a sign of an adrenal or islet cell tumor (insulinoma), or arthritis, in older ferrets. Could also be an injured back, the result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like. Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured.

Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness:

This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord or those innervating the legs. In most of these cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness.

Overheating

Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all. They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in summer. Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also a bit risky. Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening to ferrets without shade and cool water.

Loose skin and dull eyes

Generally caused by dehydration, which is quite serious in such a small animal. Get your ferret to drink more, take him to a vet for subcutaneous fluids, and look for the underlying cause.

Unexplained hair loss

Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected.

Seizures

It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem. Most often the result of insulinomas in the pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too.

Diarrhea

This can be serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated. Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate well, or by a number of diseases. A green or orange color or a bit of mucus just means the food didn't spend the usual amount of time in the digestive system, not that it's necessarily ECE (Epizootic Catarrhal Enteritis, or the "Green Diarrhea Virus"), but for more information on that, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on ECE . One thing you can try for mild cases, especially after consulting your veterinarian, is Pepto Bismol. Most ferrets don't like the taste of the liquid, but you can give them 1/15th of a tablet crushed up in food instead. A compounding pharmacist can also prepare the medication in Pepto Bismol in a different suspension to minimize or mask the taste. Call 1-800-331-2498 to locate the nearest compounding pharmacist. Dr. Mike Dutton suggests the prescription anti-diarrheal medication Amforol for cases that Pepto Bismol doesn't help.

Vomiting

Ferrets do sometimes vomit from excitement, stress, a change of diet, or overeating, but if it's repetitive or if there are any signs of blood, get to a vet. During shedding season ferrets may "spit up" a bit due to hair in the throat. This can be helped with Petromalt.

Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy

Yes, ferrets catch human flu. They'll generally rest and drink a lot. A visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the flu looks bad or lasts more than a few days. According to Dr. Susan Brown, "The antihistamine product Chlor-Trimeton may be used at 1/4 tablet 2 times daily for sneezing that may interfere with sleeping or eating."

Broken tooth

If only the tip is broken, the tooth may discolor slightly, but it's nothing to worry about. A more extensive break will cause pain, a definite unhealthy look to the tooth, and possibly gum problems, and should be treated (probably root canal or removal) by a vet or a veterinary dentist.

Persistent hacking or coughing

An occasional cough might be caused by dust or swallowed fur, and can be treated with a bit of cat hairball preventative. A cough from a cold can be treated with children's cough medicine; ask your vet for a recommendation and dosage. A persistent cough is most likely a respiratory infection, probably viral. A fever, yellow or green discharge from the eyes or nose, or congestion indicate a bacterial infection. In either case, see a vet. Another possibility is cardiomyopathy.

Swollen vulva

In an unspayed female, she's probably going into heat, especially if it's springtime. For young spayed ferrets, under 18 months or so, the most common problem is pieces of the ovary that were missed in the spaying and have begun to produce hormones. These pieces might be scattered around the abdomen. For older ferrets, however, by far the most common cause of a swollen vulva is adrenal disease, usually cancer.

Return to whole male behavior (in a neutered male)

The most common reason for a neutered male to try to mate, dribble urine or mark his areas, become aggressive, or have erections is unusual hormone production caused by adrenal disease. Other possibilities include cryptorchidism (a testicle which never descended into the scrotum and so wasn't removed) or bladder stones. The treatment for any of these is surgery.

Why does my ferret scratch so much?

If it's fleas, you'll probably see fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood) if you look closely. Other possibilities include mites, bacterial or fungal infections, dry skin, allergies to food or cleaning supplies, or poor nutrition. Excessive itching can be a sign of serious illness, including adrenal disease, so see a vet if you're at all concerned. In some cases, an appropriate dose of children's Benadryl can help an itchy ferret, but please use this only under the supervision of a qualified vet.

What do I do for my ferret's prolapsed rectum?

My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days. What's wrong?

According to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

Ferrets occasionally have dietary "indiscretions" and may get hold of something that is not particularly to the GI tract's liking. They may get loose or discolored stools, and if no groceries are going in for a day or so, their stools will lose volume and may become somewhat thin. As long as they are playing and acting okay, they can usually tolerate this for 48-72 hours. If it goes on any longer than this, or their play/sleep cycles become affected, then it's off to the vet for a check. Most problems resolve within 72 hours on their own. If it doesn't, then there may be a problem. (However watch for dark tarry stools - they are more than just discolored and indicate GI bleeding. If you ever see these - go see your vet. Likewise for profuse green diarrhea.) A one- to two-week course of Laxatone is also a good idea following changes in stools. If there is some foreign matter in the intestine, it will help it move along, and, at any rate, it won't hurt.

I caution everyone - don't throw out those abnormal stools without going through them (pick them apart in a bowl of water) and seeing if there is any foreign material in them. It may sound "gross", but it can tell you if your ferret is eating something it shouldn't.

What is that huge bruised-looking or orangish patch?

My ferret is going bald (tail only or all over).

[12k]

[10k]

If your ferret is losing hair other places, there's something wrong. Apart from shedding, by far the most common cause of hair loss in ferrets of any age is adrenal-associated endocrinopathy, a serious, but treatable, disease of the adrenal glands. Even if the hair comes back at the next coat change, it's probably still an adrenal problem. There's a separate Ferret Medical FAQ for adrenal disease, which you should take a look at if you even think your ferret might have this problem.

Other possibilities include poor nutrition, fleas, a severe mite infestation, a bacterial or fungal infection, dry skin, or allergies to food, detergents, or cleaning products.

What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty) spots on my ferret's tail/skin?

Reddish-brown wax or black spots on the tail

Orange-speckled, crusty patches

An orange, flaky discoloration of the skin is a very non-specific finding in the ferret. The crustiness of the skin means that the skin is not coming off in small microscopic flakes (1 to several cells at a time) like normally happens. When you see a crust - it means that the normal way that a ferret sheds devitalized epidermis [dead skin] has been impaired.

As far as the cause - there is not just one cause. Many things can cause this change - skin parasites, fleas, ear mites, bacterial infections of hair follicles, fungus, endocrine disease, even distemper.

Minor skin disorders such as these are more common with age. They may be exacerbated by poor husbandry, or excessive bathing (more than once per week to ten days.)

Most cases are due to a very superficial bacterial infection which will respond well to a weekly application of a gentle bactericidal shampoo. Other tests that can be done at the time of diagnosis by your vet would include a skin scraping and fungal culture. Should all tests turn up negative, and a four-week course of topical therapy not help, then the next step would be biopsy and submission to a pathology lab for microscopic examination.

How well do ferrets handle heat? What about cold?

Heat

There are a couple of ways to keep your ferrets cooler if you don't have air conditioning. Fans are an obvious idea, but unless you can blow in some cooler air, they don't do very much good for ferrets, who can't sweat. A plastic bottle of ice wrapped in a towel is helpful. Finally, you can drape a damp towel over your ferrets' cage, set a bucket of water on top, and drape another wet rag over the side of the bucket so one end is at the bottom of the bucket and the other is on the cage towel. The rag acts as a wick to keep the towel wet, and the cage stays cooler from evaporation.

Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose touch with their surroundings. The first thing to do is to get the ferret out of the hot place and start cooling him down slowly. Cool water is best, but not too cold, since the ferret's body temperature will drop way too far, with him unable to stop it. Anything you can get him to drink is good, but never force liquids into an unconscious animal.

After these emergency measures, get your pet to the vet immediately. Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die within 48 hours due to the massive shock they've undergone. Things to watch for include tarry stools and vomiting.

Cold

How can I get rid of these fleas?

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets. You can also get it by FTP or by sending email to <mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu> with the line

SEND usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum distillates. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer. Follow the directions on the bottle carefully. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

You can use a premise spray around the cage, but often, the house requires bombing, too. Get a bomb from your vet which contains methoprene (a flea growth regulator). This will allow you to complete the job in just two applications - one to kill the adults and larva, the second two weeks later to get the ones that have hatched out since the first spray. (Make sure of course to remove your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing...) Fleas can be a real nuisance - before you bomb, make sure to wash all of their bedding and vacuum carefully so you only have to do it twice....

Most insect foggers don't have a strong enough residual effect to hurt your ferrets. We routinely bomb our house for fleas and two hours later, the ferrets and dogs are romping through the house. (But I know that Siphotrol has a weak residual.)

Signs of trouble - lack of appetitie, rumbling stomachs, diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, dilated pupils, stumbling. You probably won't see them, but it's nice to know what to look for...

Long-term flea treatments

Program is used at the cat dosage per pound, administered monthly. The medicine circulates in the blood and prevents fleas which have bitten the ferret from laying viable eggs. Therefore, every pet in the house should be on Program to completely break the cycle; and you may need to use this in combination with another product temporarily, to kill most of the adults. The pills can be crushed and mixed with a treat or food, or the suspension can be put directly on the food. Be sure that the right ferret gets the whole dose. It should be taken with a meal; in fact, the more food it's taken with, the more effective it will be. Have your vet call Ciba-Geigy at 800-637-0281 with questions.

Advantage comes in a tube. It's applied once a month to the shoulder blades, where the ferret can't easily lick it off (but other pets could). Ferret owners report that it works very well. It's water soluble, so you shouldn't bathe your pet except right before another application, and the ferret must be completely dry before the next dose. The idea is to kill the fleas before they can lay their eggs, and hopefully before they bite.

Frontline is also applied externally, and is also said to work very well. It's alcohol-based and smells a bit until it dries, but it's also water resistant. This means it may last longer than Advantage, but if your ferret should happen to have a reaction to it (which I've never heard of), getting it off could be more difficult.

How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites? What do I do about them?

Dr. Williams, DVM says:

Ferrets very commonly get ear mites, so you don't need to get upset. Check with your vet and get two products: a ceruminolytic (such as "Oti-Clens"), which will dissolve the wax that the mites live in. This is far preferable to trying to dig the wax out with Q-tips. Then get a good ear miticide from your vet (I use Tresaderm). Put a little of the ear cleaner (which dissolves the wax) in the ear and massage. Let it sit for about a minute. Your ferret will probably shakes its head, sending wax all over you and the floor. Use a Q-tip and gently collect the rest of the wax from the ear canal. You won't hit the ear drum, as the ferrets ear canal is roughly L-shaped - you will just be cleaning the vertical part of the canal. After you have cleaned the wax, put the ear drops [miticide] in. Make sure that the fluids that you are using are body temperature - put them in your shirt or pocket for a few minutes before using. No one likes cold water in their ears!!!!

Clean every day for a week to 10 days, stop for a week, and go again for another week to take care of mites. If your problem is just dirty ears (some ferrets have a lot of wax) - just use the ear wax remover once a week.

Ivermectin can be used in bad cases, either orally, injected, or directly in the ear. Today I ran across an article (Bell, JA. Parasites of Domesticated Pet Ferrets, Comp. Clin. Educ. Pract. Vet. 16(5): 617-620), which gives a dosage for topical administration of ivermectin:

Injectable ivermectin is mixed with propylene glycol at a ration of approximately 1:20 - then 0.2 to 0.3 ml (4-6 drops) into each ear canal daily. Ferrets on ivermectin for heartworm prevention should not have problems with ear mites.

Do not depend on the oil [used for cleaning] to completely rid your pet of mites either although it will help to suffocate them. Mites are easily taken care of by using Ivermectin directly in the ears at 0.5mg/kg divided into two doses to be used in each ear and then repeated in two weeks. You need to have a positive diagnosis of mites made by your vet and get the medication from him or her.

Oterna causes problems

Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Dr. Deborah W. Kemmerer, DVM, writes:

My practice has been "ferret-intensive" for about nine years. I've diagnosed and treated about thirty ferrets for heartworms. Many who were not on preventive have been found to be heartworm- positive on necropsy when presented for "sudden death syndrome". In my opinion, any ferret in a heartworm-endemic area should be on preventive even if he never goes outside.

Prevention

The American Heartworm Society recommends Heartgard for use in ferrets. In theory this is great, but sometimes less than practical. Most ferret owners are not comfortable with giving tablets and most ferrets will not consume the entire "brick" of the canine chewable monthly tablet. The new Feline Heartgard is promising, however. In a taste test using ferret patients conducted at this hospital, we observed about 60% acceptance of the small feline chewable tablet. This will be a relief to many owners who do not enjoy administering the liquid mixture described below.

If a ferret will not eat the chewable feline tablet, this is what I use as an alternative: Mix 0.3 cc's of Ivermectin 1% Injection in one ounce of propylene glycol (Ivermectin is not water-soluble). this makes a 100 microgram/ml suspension. Administer 0.1 cc per pound of body weight once monthly by mouth. We dispense the mixture in amber bottles with appropriate warnings about sunlight, and we put a two- year expiration date on it. The injection itself has a longer expiration date, so this should be adequate.

I have been using this mixture since 1988. Owner compliance is very good, complications and side effects are virtually nil, and no ferret who is taking it has been diagnosed with heartworms. I do see heartworm-positive ferrets who are not taking preventive. I don't worry too much about the lack of USDA approval for ferrets, because there is virtually nothing approved for any use in ferrets with the exception of two vaccines anyway.

Diagnosis and treatment

The CITE Snap test for occult heartworms has proven to be very accurate and dependable for use in ferrets. It has shown positive results even in the face of only one or two very stunted adult worms. I cannot attest to personal experience with accuracy in any other antigen test.

If your pets are on heartworm preventative, consider giving it to them all year. That removes the possibility that a worm might sneak in before you start it up again, so your pet will be safer, and won't have to have another heartworm test every spring.

Just so you know, the signs of a heartworm infestation include chronic cough, lethargy, labored breathing, fluid accumulation in the abdomen, fainting, and a bluish color to the tongue, gums and lips.

Is there an animal poison control hotline?

The NAPCC Web site offers advice on preventing animal poisoning, what to do if your pet is poisoned, and so on.

Common diseases in ferrets

Intestinal blockages

Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck. Symptoms may include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation, bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others. Blockages may occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around and produce only intermittent symptoms. Blockages are serious and occasionally fatal; the most important immediate concern is to keep your ferret hydrated, which you can do by giving him 5 cc of water every 4 hours from a baby feeding syringe. You can try giving your ferret large doses of hairball remedy every 30 minutes for an hour or two to see if the blockage passes, but if not, take him to a vet right away for an X-ray, barium study, and/or surgery to remove it. Laxatone or a similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this.

Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands

Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward, lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in the hindquarters. In females, often the most prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in heat. Often, however, a tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery). The left gland seems to be affected more often than the right. More information is available in the Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal Disease.

Islet cell tumors (insulinoma)

These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas. Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level, and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is worthwhile. Symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, wobbly gait, and pawing at the mouth; in more severe cases attention lapses (staring into space) or seizures may also occur. If you're more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough blood sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup or honey on your pet's gums to raise it just enough to bring him out of the seizure. More information is available in the Ferret Medical FAQ on Insulinoma .

Lymphoma or lymphosarcoma

This is a cancer of the lymphatic system. There are two main types, "classic" and juvenile. Classic lymphoma occurs in older ferrets and causes enlarged lymph nodes and irregularities in the blood cell count, but often the ferret doesn't show any outward signs until the disease has progressed pretty far, at which point the ferret suddenly gets very sick. Conclusive diagnosis is by aspiration or biopsy of a lymph node, and treatment is chemotherapy. Juvenile lymphoma is completely different. It affects ferrets under 14 months, doesn't generally cause enlarged lymph nodes, and hits very hard and fast. Also see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Lymphosarcoma.

Splenomegaly [enlarged spleen, usually a swelling in the upper abdomen]

In situations where a neoplasm is not present [this is a common symptom of lymphosarcoma], the pros and cons of splenectomy should be discussed with your veterinarian. If an animal simply has a large spleen, but shows no signs of illness or discomfort, it is safer for the animal to leave it in. However, if the animal shows signs of discomfort, such as lethargy and a poor appetite, or a decrease in activity, the spleen should probably be removed. These animals also need good nursing care care to get them back on their food. Often caused by H. mustelae infection (see below). With proper care - recovery rates are over 90%. Also see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Splenomegaly.

Helicobacter mustelae infection

A bacterial infection of the stomach lining, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets. Animals with long-standing infections (generally older animals), may develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid production in the stomach. Signs of a problem include repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above). Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research in this area. Also see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Gastric Ulcers / Helicobacter mustelae.

Cutaneous vaccine reactions

Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump at the site of vaccination. The lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck. The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your pet. Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats.

Urinary tract infections and prostate trouble

Signs include frequent urination, straining to urinate, and possibly funny-looking or smelly urine. Un-spayed females in heat, and spayed females with swollen vulvas due to adrenal disease , are particularly prone to UTIs. Treatment generally consists of a course of antibiotic (usually Amoxicillin); if the ferret doesn't respond to that, the possibility of bladder stones should be considered.

In males, what looks like a UTI may be (or be aggravated by) an inflamed prostate, also generally caused by adrenal disease. In this case the prostate, which is normally tiny, can be palpated, and a greenish goo can often be expressed from it. Taking care of the adrenal problem should clear up the prostate trouble too.

Noninfectious

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

1. GI Foreign Bodies
   • This is the MOST COMMON cause of wasting and acute abdominal disease in the ferret under 1 year of age. It occurs with less frequency in older ferrets.
   • Ferrets love to chew and eat rubber and "sweaty" objects. The most common foreign bodies we remove are latex rubber pet toys, foam rubber, insoles and soles of shoes, pipe insulation, chair foot protectors, along with towels, cotton balls, plastic, metal, and wood.
   • Hair balls are VERY COMMON particularly in the ferret 2 years of age and older.
   • Most foreign bodies remain in the stomach if they are too large to pass and cause a slow wasting disease that may last for months. (This is the way that most hairballs present.) However, if the foreign material passes out of the stomach and lodges in the small intestine, then the pet becomes acutely ill, severely depressed, dehydrated, in extreme abdominal pain and finally coma and death within 24 to 48 hours if surgery is not performed.
   • Other signs that your pet may have a foreign body are pawing at the mouth frequently, vomiting (although remember that many pets with foreign bodies do not vomit), appetite that goes on and off, black tarry stools that come and go.
   • Prevention is by use of a cat hairball laxative either every day or every other day (about 1") and ferret proofing your house on hands and knees for potential foreign body items.
   • Treatment is generally surgery, because if it is too large to leave the stomach, it has to come out somehow!

2. Aplastic Anemia
   • A common cause of death of unspayed breeding females.
   • The cause is a condition caused by high levels of the hormone estrogen that is produced during the heat period which in turn suppresses the production of vital red and white blood cells in the bone marrow. This suppression is irreversible as the disease advances and death occurs from severe anemia, bleeding (because the blood can't clot properly), and secondary bacterial infections because there aren't enough white blood cells to fight.
   • Signs are seen in animals in heat 1 month or longer (they can stay in heat up to 180 days if unbred), and include general depression and hind limb weakness that seems to occur suddenly and sudden loss of appetite. Additionally there may be marked hair loss and baldness on the body.
   • Upon closer exam the gums appear light pink or white, and there may be small hemorrhages under the skin. A complete blood count should be done to determine the severity of the damage to the bone marrow.
   • If the condition is advanced, there is no treatment as it is irreversible, and euthanasia is recommended. If the disease is caught early, treatment may include a spay, multiple transfusions and other supportive care.
   • Prevention is by having animals not designated for breeding spayed by 6 months of age. Those to be used for breeding should use the hormone HCG for taking them out of heat during cycles when they will not be bred. The use of vasectomized males can sometimes be unreliable, and we do not recommend it.

3. Anal Gland Impaction
   • Caused when the animal has a blockage to the outflow of anal gland secretion or abnormally thick anal gland material.
   • Signs are few, doesn't seem to cause them much pain. If the gland ruptures, a draining hole will be seen near the anus, and the pet may lick at the area frequently.
   • Treatment is by surgical removal of the anal glands. Even if only one is affected now, remove both as the other may become affected later.
   • There is no prevention, and this disease does not occur with sufficient frequency to warrant routine anal gland removal in all ferrets.

4. Cataracts
   • Caused when the lens of the eye becomes opaque. Light can no longer reach the retina and the animal becomes blind. In ferrets it is primarily seen in animals under one year of age and is considered to be hereditary. In other cases it may be caused by aging of the eye in very old animals or as a result of injury to the eye.
   • Signs are almost nonexistent. Ferrets have very poor eyesight and do not depend on it for much. Many people are surprised to find that their ferrets are blind. They eyes will have a whitish blue cast to the area of the pupil.
   • Treatment is unnecessary.
   • Prevention of hereditary cataracts is by not repeating the breeding.

5. Cardiomyopathy

   There is a separate FAQ devoted to cardiomyopathy.

   • Seen generally in animals over 3 years of age, rare in young. Caused by an abnormal thinning or thickening of the heart muscle which interferes with blood flow through the heart.
   • Signs include a marked decrease in activity, the need to rest in the middle of the play periods, great difficulty in awakening from sleep, and as the disease progresses one may see coughing, difficulty breathing, fluid build-up in the abdomen and a general loss of condition.
   • Diagnosis is by x-ray and EKG.
   • Treatment is dependent on which type of heart muscle abnormality is present. There is no cure for this disease, treatment helps to alleviate symptoms and reduce he work load on the heart and attempt to prolong life.

6. Urolithiasis (Bladder Stones)
   • The cause is not completely understood. A high ash content of the diet and possible underlying bacterial or viral infections, and even some genetic predisposition may all play a part. This condition is rarely seen in animals on a low ash cat food.
   • Signs include blood in the urine, difficulty in urinating (may be accompanied by crying when urinating), "sandy" material being passed in the urine, and in the most severe cases there may be a complete blockage leading to no urine being passed and eventual depression, coma and death.
   • Treatment depends on the size of the stones. Surgery may be indicated or a change to a special diet may solve the problem.
   • Prevention is by feeding a low ash diet.

Parasitic health problems

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

1. Ear Mites [10.10]
   • Caused by a small mite that lives in the ear and sucks blood and is picked up from other animals with mites (including dogs and cats).
   • Signs are very minimal to none. Ferrets seem to tolerate mites very well. Occasionally there may be an excessive amount of ear wax produced, extensive scratching of the ears, and small black pigmented areas that appear on the ear.
   • Treatment is with Ivermectin at 1 mg/kg divided into two doses with each dose dropped into each ear. This is repeated in two weeks. All the animals in the house should be treated. Wash bedding the same day as treatment and a bath for the pet wouldn't hurt, either. They also may be treated with Tresaderm daily for 14 days.

2. Fleas
   • Caused by an insect that spends a small portion of its life on the animal and lives in the surrounding environment laying eggs the rest of the time.
   • Prevented by spraying or powdering your animals 2 times a week with a pyrethrin product if they go outside. If you already have them, the house must be treated also.

Infectious diseases

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

1. Influenza virus
   • Caused by the same complex of viruses that cause disease in humans. They can catch it from humans or other ferrets.
   • Signs include a runny nose (clear discharge), runny eyes, sneezing, coughing, decrease but not total loss in appetite, lethargy and occasionally diarrhea. In newborns it may be fatal.
   • Treatments is generally nothing specific except rest and loving care. They generally get over it in 3 to 7 days (recall how long your flu lasted, and they will generally be the same), The antihistamine product Chlor Trimeton may be used at 1/4 tablet 2 times daily for sneezing that may interfere with sleeping or eating. If the appetite is totally lost or if any green or yellow discharges appear or if there is extreme lethargy, these animals should be seen by a veterinarian.
   • Prevention is washing hands and no kissing when you are dealing with a cold. Also remember, they can give the flu right back to you!

2. Canine Distemper
   • A 100% fatal disease that is still very much out there! It is caused by a virus that attacks many organs in the body. The virus can stay alive for a long time on shoes and clothes that have come in contact with infected material. (Such as from walks in parks or other areas where animals roam).
   • Signs range from acute [quick] death to a slow progressive disease which usually starts as an eye infection and progresses to a rash on the chin and lips and abdomen, and thickened hard pads on the feet. Diarrhea, vomiting, severe lethargy are other possible signs. The disease may be very drawn out with seizures and coma at the end.
   • There is no treatment for distemper. Euthanasia is the kindest solution as it is a long and painful way to go.
   • Prevention is by vaccination with the Fromm-D [or Fervac-D] distemper vaccine. Use of [some] other vaccines have occasionally caused cases of distemper in ferrets. The schedule would be the first shot at 6 weeks of age then 8 weeks, 11 weeks, 14 weeks and annually thereafter. The vaccine WILL NOT last for 3 years in the face of an outbreak. Ferrets do not need vaccines containing leptospirosis, hepatitis, parainfluenza or any other dog virus.

Neoplasia (Cancer)

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

1. Lymphosarcoma
   • This is a disease of the lymphatic system of the body which is an important part of the immune system. The cause is unknown but investigation is being done to determine if there is a virus involved. It can occur in ferrets of any age.
   • Signs are very variable, and many animals show no outward signs until they are very ill, or changes are picked up on a routine veterinary exam. Changes may include enlarged lymph nodes anywhere in or on the body, a greatly enlarged spleen, wasting, difficulty breathing, and extreme lethargy. A complete blood cell count may indicate abnormal (cancerous) cells present, although this occurs in a very small percentage of cases.
   • Diagnosis is generally by biopsy of a lymph node, spleen or fluid from the chest.
   • Treatment is by chemotherapy of the animal fulfills certain criteria that would make it a good candidate, Chemotherapy has been successful in about 75% of our cases, allowing life to be prolonged in a quality way for 6 months to 2 years.

2. Insulinoma
   • This is a tumor of the pancreas leading to a high insulin production and a low blood sugar.

3. Adrenal Adenoma or Adenocarcinoma
   • This is a tumor of the adrenal gland.

4. Skin tumors
   • There are a variety of skin tumors occurring in the pet ferret. The most common are sebaceous gland adenomas, and mast cell tumors. Most of these should be removed particularly if they are ulcerated, bleeding, or have a rough surface.
   • Chondromas occur with some frequency on the tip of the tail as a hard round lump. They are generally benign, but may become large and bothersome and can easily be removed.

Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

Toxoplasmosis has been reported twice in ferrets. Ferrets will not shed the toxoplasma organism to the extent that cats do, but if they are exposed to cat feces, they may contract the disease and shed very low amounts of oocysts.

Here's the bottom line. Because of the devastating effects that Toxoplasma can have on a developing human fetus in the first trimester - you don't want to take ANY chance at all on exposing [a pregnant woman] to Toxo. So [someone in the household who isn't pregnant] inherits all litterbox duties for the next nine months. Actually, she probably stands a higher chance of getting Toxo from poorly cooked beef. The doctor says - if she's a carnivore - better get used to well-done steaks....

How can I get my ferret to take this medication?

Liquids

If you're really lucky, your ferret will like the taste of the medication. In that case, either hold the dropper in front of the ferret or empty it into a spoon and let him lick it. If you squeeze the medication into his mouth, be sure not to squirt it down his throat, since he may inhale some and get pneumonia. Putting the dropper behind his back teeth and aiming in from the side helps.

If he doesn't like the medication, you'll want to mix it with something that tastes better, such as Ferretone, Petromalt, Pedialyte, or apple juice. Check with your vet to find out what won't interfere with the medication or its absorption. Some can't be given with oils, others with sugary foods, others with dairy products, and so on. You might be able to just mix the medication and the bribe on a spoon and get your ferret to lick it that way.

If not, suck the medication into a small feeding syringe, the kind without a needle, draw in a few cc's of the bribe, and shake it to mix them. Put a big old towel on a table or the floor, put the ferret on it, and see if he'll lick the mixture willingly. Be warned, ferrets can spit several feet. Don't wear your nice clothes.

If you have to force the mixture in, hold the ferret's head and shoulders with one hand so he can't back away. Put the syringe tip in on the side of his mouth and slowly squirt the stuff in, being careful not to aim it down his throat (or he might inhale some) and making sure to give the ferret enough time to swallow. You may need to hold the ferret's head up and his mouth closed, and rub his throat so he swallows. Once the medication is gone, give the ferret another small treat and tell him what a good ferret he was.

Pills

Where can I get medications at a discount?

Can ferrets have transfusions?

If your ferret is going in for extensive surgery, ask your vet whether it might be a good idea to also bring along a big, healthy ferret as a potential blood donor, just in case it's needed.

What anesthetic should my vet be using?

The only acceptable type of anesthetic agent for general anesthesia in the ferret is gas, and preferably a gas anesthetic called isoflurane. Most vets use it, but other types of gas anesthetics, such as halothane are still in use. Isoflurane currently is the safest, with the least chance of generating a life-threatening cardiac arrhythmia or causing liver disease, both of which may be seen (rarely) with halothane. Most ferrets, even with severe disease, will go down quickly with isoflurane, and come up within 5-10 minutes. No other premedications are necessary [unlike for the injectable ketamine].

I would not use a vet who used injectable anesthetic for surgery - chances are much higher for overdosing. The effects of injectable anesthetics are extremely unpredictable in the ferret, and older ferrets are at risk for arrhythmia and cardiovascular shock.

How do I care for my sick or recovering ferret?

At first, your sick or recovering ferret will be a big drain on your time, energy, and humor. It's amazing how stubborn a sick ferret can be. If you're unfortunate enough to have a chronically ill ferret, you may find that she becomes easier to deal with after a while, as you both get used to her new routine and limitations.

You may have an assortment of medications for your ferret, whose schedule and doses might change according to her health. It's very important to keep a complete and accurate chart. Note how and when medicines must be given, and whenever you give medicines write them down and note the time. Keep information on side effects, when to skip doses, how to deal with missed doses or accidently doubled doses, which medicines should not be given close together, which must be shielded form light, and all other related information. Do not keep medications in a room which gets too hot, too cold, or too humid. Never give a laxative close to when you give a medicine. Be aware of side-effects and interactions; for instance, some medicines increase the chance of sunburn.

Pill cutters work much better than scalpels or other things, and a tweezers will also be handy. Keep in mind how different medicines must be given, and find the best way for each to minimize the stress to you and your ferret. Some must be given in ways which minimize the exposure to water or saliva. They are most easily given with a narrow pill gun such as your vet will probably carry, or mixed with a fatty gel like Nutrical. Liquids are pretty straight forward, but some ferrets get good at bring those up or spitting them out. If your vet or the manufacturer's research pharmacists say they may be given with fats try putting some Linatone or Nutrical on the ferret's nose and while she is licking that off squirting in the dose at the posterior side of the mouth. (Do not use a laxative such as Petromalt for these.)

You may need to cut down the sides of a litter pan for easy access, and folded towels can be used to make gentle ramps. For recovering ferret who is ready for play but isn't quite up to speed yet, put extra ramps, pillows, and climbing boxes around the room she'll be playing in, to make it easier for her to get into and out of boxes and jump down from furniture. (Be careful not to let her be more active than is safe, and always supervise her in play.)

Weak ferrets can't play normally, but they still enjoy encountering new things. Ruffle loved being carried for walks, being given herbs to smell (especially mints and basil), having the sun on her belly for short periods, listening to music (especially songs with her name), hugs and kisses, and other peaceful entertainments.

If your ferret has a reduction in smell try moistening a cotton puff or swab with a bit of perfume and putting it on the lower back above the tail, and behind the ears. That will keep it from sensitive areas but let the ferret enjoy the comforting status of having a ferret-proper level of smell.

If at all possible cancel your trips away. If not possible have a familiar, friendly, knowledgeable pet sitter such as a vet tech. Have a schedule, with some minor variations for interest, so that your pet knows what to expect. When your ferret has to be at the vet's office bring along a favorite toy or blanket which smells like home.

My ferret won't eat. What should I do?

You can add Nutri-Cal, Pedialyte, medications, and so forth to the baby food if your vet recommends them, and as your ferret's recovery progresses, you can mix in portions of his regular food, moistened somewhat, to gradually work him back to eating dry food on his own.

Sustacal and Ensure are sometimes recommended as short-term diets for very sick ferrets, possibly in a mixture such as "Duck Soup" but they aren't nutritionally complete and should never be used as the only long-term food for a non-terminal ferret. According to one report, Ensure has the preferred flavors, but is also more likely to cause diarrhea. The best solution seemed to be combinations of the two.

What's Duck Soup? Anyone have a recipe?

To really get the weight back on a sick ferret, some people have suggested giving him whipping cream. It doesn't have much nutrition, but it is full of calories and can help an underweight ferret gain some back.

The following comes from Ann Davis:

ACME Ferret Company --- The Original DUCK SOUP

For years, we have been trying to find a super formula to fatten up sick ferrets, oldsters and ferrets with ulcers. We have been looking for something high in calories and protein, with added vitamins. After trying just about everything on the market for pets, we had just about given up, and were making do with some things that were not quite perfect for the little guys, because everything made for cats that we could find had a condensed milk base.

[If your ferret is really sick, you may have to work your way through] all the steps, from full Sustacal to Duck Soup in caring for a sick ferret.

We have heard of many miraculous recoveries attributed to Duck Soup. It has helped old ferrets, ferrets with insulinoma, ferrets with hair loss, and ferrets who are just plain too sick to eat.

DUCK SOUP

1 can Sustacal (8 oz., or about 230 ml; it comes in a larger size too)
1 can water (8 oz., or about 230 ml)
2 scoops puppy or kitten weaning formula -- OPTIONAL
4 oz. (110 g? or ml?) dry kitten or ferret food, soaked in enough water to cover and soften it completely

[Sustacal is meant for humans; look for it by baby formulas or in the pharmacy section of your supermarket. Debbie Riccio says you can also use Ensure, Discover 2.0, or Just Born (puppy/kitten milk replacer).]

Mix thoroughly. We always nuke it for them to the temperature of baby formula. We serve about 4 fluid ounces at a time twice a day for maintenance; if your little guys eat too much and you feel they are getting fat, you can increase the amount of water. We have tried increasing the amount of dry food, but if it gets too thick some of them won't eat it. This formula also freezes well -- the Sustacal must be used within 48 hours if left only in the fridge.

What are normal body temperature, blood test results, etc.?

Rectal temperature   100-103 F (37.8 - 39.4 C), 101.9 average

Heart rate           216-250/min (225 average)

Respiration          33-36/min

Urine pH             6.5-7.5; mild to moderate proteinura is common and normal
Blood volume         60-80 ml/kg

                            mean    acceptable range
sodium (mmol/L)             153     143-163
potassium (mmol/L)          4.47    3.2-5.77
chloride (mmol/L)           116     105-127
calcium (mg/dl)             8.8     7.5-10.1
inorganic phosphorus (mg/dl) 5.5     3.7-7.4
glucose (fasted) (mg/dl)    110     65-164
BUN (mg/dl)                 21      8-37
creatinine (mg/dl)          0.5     0.16-0.84
BUN/creatinine              42
total protein (g/dl)        5.8     4.4-7.3
albumin (g/dl)              3.3     2.5-4.1
globulin (g/dl)             2.2     1.8-2.9
total bilirubin (mg/dl)     0.2     0.1-0.5
cholesterol (mg/dl)         174     76-272
alkaline phosphatase (IU/L) 37      15-75
ALT (IU/L)                  95      13-176
AST (IU/L)                  61      23-99
CO2                         22      14-30
A/G (g/dl)                  1.3     1.0-2.3
LDH                         274     101-498
triglycerides               98      31-101
GGT                         4.8     1-13
uric acid                   2.2     1.4-3.3
PCV (%)                     45.4    38-54
hemoglobin (g/dl)                   13-18
RBC (X10^6/mm3)             9.0     7.0-11.0
platelets (X10^3)           400     350-600
reticulocytes (%)           N/A
WBC (x10^3/mm3)             5.22    2.8-8.0
neutrophils                 3017    2329-5700
                            (59%)   (39-85%)
lymphocytes                 1157    525-3500
                            (35%)   (11-55%)
monocytes                   119     52-177
                            (2.6%)  (0.76-4.4%)
eosinophils                 133     29-432
                            (2.8%)  (1-8%)
basophils                   0       0
MCV (um3)                   51      46-65
MCH (pg)                    17.7    15.5-19.0
MCHC                        33      29-36 *

There are, of course, dozens of components in your ferret's blood which can help your vet determine what's wrong. Here are some of the ones people ask about most often, and normal ranges. If you want to know more about what your ferret's tests mean, don't hesitate to ask your vet.

The following information is extracted from an article in The FAIR [Ferret Adoption, Information & Rescue Society] Report, Vol. II, No. 2, by Mary Van Dahm, with a few additions.

Blood glucose

Glucose is a sugar, the main energy source for the body. Its level varies through the day, higher just after a meal, lower when the ferret is hungry, but the body keeps it fairly constant mainly by controlling the amount of insulin in the blood. A non-fasted blood glucose test might give values up to 207 mg/dl, depending on when the ferret last ate. Testing the blood glucose after withholding food from the ferret for 6 hours (fasting blood glucose) eliminates the variation and gives you a more definite number to judge it by. A low reading (hypoglycemia) may be a sign of insulinoma . A high reading (hyperglycemia) is rare, but might be a sign of diabetes. However, insulinoma can also cause a high glucose reading, and since diabetes is extremely rare in ferrets, you should double-check any diabetes diagnosis by looking for sugar in the urine as well.

Pack cell volume/hematocrit (PCV/HCT)

This is the percentage of red blood cells in the blood. Low readings indicate anemia; high readings are usually a sign of dehydration.

Red blood cells (RBC)

Red blood cells carry oxygen to the body's tissues and carbon dioxide back to the lungs. Low readings show anemia.

White blood cells (WBC)

Part of the immune system. Readings over about 7000 may mean the ferret is fighting off an infection, cold or flu. Readings over 10,000 may be early signs of lymphoma or another cancer. Unusually low readings indicate anemia and a bone marrow problem.

Lymphocytes

Another type of white blood cell. High readings can indicate a "smoldering" infection, possibly Helicobacter mustelae. Many, but not all, cases of lymphosarcoma also show elevated lymphocyte levels.

Eosinophils

Another type of white blood cell. Often an indicator of intestinal disorders, infection, or cancer. Other parts of the blood profile must also be considered for a diagnosis.

Protein, Albumin and Globulin

Albumin is a kind of protein, and globulin is a general term for all proteins that aren't albumin, so protein - albumin = globulin. The numbers indicate the ferret's general health and nutrition, and albumin also helps show how well the liver and kidneys are working.

BUN and Creatinine

The job of the kidneys is to filter out impurities, so if they aren't working well, these levels will be high.

Alkaline phosphatese

This is an enzyme found in the liver and bone. When bones are growing or the liver is damaged, lots of this is released into the blood.

Total bilirubin

A by-product of the normal breakdown of hemoglobin in red blood cells. Helps diagnose liver disease and bile duct obstruction.

Sodium, Potassium and Chloride

Controlled by the kidneys, these are commonly called blood electrolytes. They are involved in water balance, acid/base balance, and the transmission of nerve impulses, especially to the heart.

Calcium and Phosphorus

These minerals are controlled by the parathyroid glands and the kidneys. The levels show possible problems with bones, blood clotting, and nerve, muscle, and cell activity.

1. Wellness, Inc. How to Read Your Report, 1993
2. Finkler, M. Practical Ferret Medicine and Surgery for the Private Practitioner, 1993
3. Brown, S. Ferret Medicine and Surgery, 1992
4. Fox, JG. Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, 1988 *

What tests might my vet want to run, and why?

There is no one test for a general check-up. There are not even tests that are specific for some certain diseases. The following is a list of some example tests for common ferret diseases, but in case of some multi-systemic diseases (such as heart disease), they may not show all the abnormalities.

Tests that are specific for one disease

• insulinoma - resting blood glucose and insulin level (see the Ferret Insulinoma FAQ)
• hyper adrenal disease - the Univ. of Tenn. ferret adrenal panel (see the Ferret Adrenal Disease FAQ)
• ovarian remnant - estrogen
• urinary tract infection - urinalysis
• urinary bladder stones - x-ray
• bone fractures - x-ray

Tests that help determine a particular organ function

(may not be specific to cause, prognosis, etc.)

• heart disease - auscultation, x-ray, ultrasound (see the Ferret Cardiomyopathy FAQ)
• malignant lymphoma - physical exam, biopsy (see the Ferret Lymphosarcoma FAQ)
• masses - physical exam, biopsy
• spleen masses - physical exam, biopsy (see the Ferret Splenomegaly (Enlarged Spleen) FAQ)

The problem with biopsies is that you need to biopsy the correct tissue. That may not be possible such as some type of spinal cord or brain lesion. Intestinal diseases are easy to biopsy by surgical methods but that entails anesthesia (which may be risky to an ill ferret) and major abdominal surgery. So... you have a number of difficulties from the medical side to run a test for general health. Even if you can target a specific area, there may not be a definitive test and the owner needs to agree to costs, risks, etc.

The advice dispensed by myself is not meant to supplant the advice of veterinarians who are in charge of the patient. If the patient is not currently under the care of a veterinarian, the client is recommended to take their ferret to one.

Who makes this product or medication?

Alkeran - Burroughs-Wellcome Co.

Cytoxan - Bristol Meyers

Fervac D vaccine - United Vaccines Madison, Wisc. 53713 (608) 277-3030

Fromm D vaccine - Solvay Animal Health, Inc. Mendota Heights, Minn. 55120

Keflex Pediatric Suspension 100 mg/cc - Dista Products Co. Division of Eli Lilly, Inc. Indianapolis, Ind.

Lasix - Taylor Pharmacal Co. Decatur, Illinois 62525

Lysodren - Bristol Meyers

Nutrical - EVSCO Pharmaceuticals Buena, N.J. 08310

PDS II - Ethicon, Inc. Somerville, N.J. 08876-0151

Proglycem - Baker Cummins 800-347-4774

What books can I get or recommend to my vet?

Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents - Clinical Medicine and Surgery, by Elizabeth Hillyer and Katherine Quesenberry (1997)

Another good reference work, a bit outdated but still worthwhile for both vets and others, is

Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, by James G. Fox. Lea and Febiger, Philadelphia (1988). ISBN 0-8121-1139-7.

There is also a series out by the

          American Animal Hospital Association
          12575 West Bayaud Ave.    
          Lakewood, CO  80228
          tel. 800-252-2242  

Are there any other useful references?

Lawrence HJ et al. Unilateral adrenalectomy as a treatment for adrenocortical tumors in ferrets: Five cases (1990-1992). JAVMA 203(2): pp 267-270, 15 July 1993.

Marini, RP et al. Functional islet cell tumor in six ferrets. JAVMA 202(3):430-434, 1 February 1993.

Rosenthal KL et al. Hyperadrenocorticism associated with adrenocortical tumor or nodular hyperplasia of the adrenal gland in ferrets: 50 cases (1987-1991). JAVMA 203(2):pp. 271-275, 15 July 1993.

Dr. Susan Brown recommends these, on a variety of subjects:

Blancou J, Aubert MFA, Artois M. Experimental rabies in the ferret (Mustela [putorius furo] Susceptibility - Symptoms - Excretion of the virus. Rev Med Vet 1982; 133(8-9): 553 557. (Translation by NIH).

Daoust PY, Hunter DB. Spontaneous aleutian disease in ferrets. Can Vet J 1978; 19: 133-135.

Forester, U., The adaptability of two rabies virus strains isolated in central Europe to one domesticated and two wild-living species. A contribution to the Epidemiology of rabies. Part 4: Transmission studies on ferrets with a rodent isolate. Zbl Vet Med B 1979; 26: 26-38. (Translation by NIH).

Fox JG, Murphy JC, Ackerman MS, Prostak KS, Gallagher CA, Rambow VJ. Proliferative colitis in ferrets. 1982; 43: 858-864.

Garibaldi ME, Goad P, Fox JG, Sylvina TJ, Murray R. Serum cortisol radioimmunoassay values in the normal ferret and response to ACTH stimulation and dexamethasone suppression tests. Lab An Sci 1988; 38: 452- 454.

Hoover JP, Baldwin CA, Rupprecht CE. Serologic response of domestic ferrets (Mustela putorius furo) to canine distemper and rabies virus vaccines. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1989; 194: 234-238.

Johnson-Delaney C, Nelson W. A Rapid procedure for filling fractured canine teeth of ferrets. J of Small Exotic Animal Medicine 1992; 3: 100-102.

Kawasaki, T. Retinal Atrophy in the ferret. J of Small Exotic Animal Medicine 1992; 3: 137.

Kociba GJ, Caputo CA. Aplastic anemia associated with estrus in pet ferrets. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1981; 178: 1293-1294.

Kreuger KL, Murphy J C Fox J G. Treatment of proliferative colitis in ferrets. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1989; 194: 1435-1436.

Liberson AJ, Newcomer CE, Ackerman JI, Murphy JC, Fox JG. Mastitis caused by hemolytic Escherichia coli in the ferret. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1983; 183: 1179-1181.

Luttgen PJ, Storts RW, Rogers KS, Morton LD. Insulinoma in a ferret. J Am VetMed Assoc 1986; 189: 920-921.

Mainka CH, Heber L, Schneider W. Studies on rabies of ferrets after a singleantibodies vaccination, J Vet Med B 1988; 35: 24-28.

Manning D, Bell J. Lack of detectable blood groups in domestic ferrets: Implications for transfusion. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1990; 197: 84-86.

Nguyen HT, Moreland AF, Shields RP. Urolithasis in ferrets (Mustela putorius). Lab An Sci 1979; 29: 243-245.

Rupprecht CE, Gilbert J, Pitts R, Marshall KR, Koprowski H. Evaluation of an inactivated rabies vaccine in domestic ferrets. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1990; 196: 1614-1616.

Stauber E, Robinette J, Basaraba R, Riggs M, Bishop C. Mast cell tumors in three ferrets. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1990; 196: 766-767.